July 22, 2016 / como / 0 Comments
People today are living in fact-paced environment where changes happen every day which directly and indirectly affect their lifestyles. Since the dawn of modern technology, changes became faster and new things emerge just as the old ones are on the verge of dominating the market they belonged. Computers, mobile phones, and other technological gadgets continually develops and innovates in a very quick span of time that new models from manufacturers are being launched a lot of times within a year. And these innovations and changes are ever growing as times pass by.
In the automotive industry, hybrid vehicles are the latest trends. Amidst the continuous improvements in conventional vehicles, these vehicle types found its way into the scope of attraction of consumers. Not only did they gain limelight because of their more modern mechanisms, they also captured the interests of people because of their very promising features. In fact, hybrid vehicles did not remain as a concept for too long. Giants in the car manufacturing industry have immediately jumped into the concept and created their very own version of hybrid vehicles, mostly hybrid cars; and began making them available to the market.
In the last 8 years or so, the popularity of hybrid vehicles maintained an impressive growth; with more and more people expressing their interest towards this automotive technological wonder. As well, other car manufacturers are also starting making their own hybrid vehicle versions; and planning to launch it to be marketed in the coming years. This scenario holds a very promising future for hybrids and for people who want to own one of these.
The rising popularity of hybrid vehicles is not surprising; considering its features and the advantages that they offer. These benefits allow people to go beyond the limits and restrictions of conventional vehicles; giving a wider scope of alternative for them; which, as far as convenience, is concerned, a very important factor that holds enormous impact.
Among the most attractive features and benefits being offered by hybrid vehicles include high fuel efficiency, better mileage, environmentally- friendly mechanism and more advanced interior accessory features that topple down conventional cars in the market. However, the considerably high price of hybrids is one factor that prevents the total domination of these car types in the market. Despite the potential enormous savings that they can get from the cut on their fuel consumption, the price tags of these vehicles remain to be very expensive, especially for average- earning citizens.
Fortunately, innovations and developments are perpetually being done with hybrid vehicles. These offer greater promises for more convenience, and perhaps, more practical reasons for the patronization of these products. Overall, it is not impossible that hybrid vehicles will eventually dominate the automotive industry in the coming decades.
July 19, 2016 / como / 0 Comments
Figure 1 Schematic diagram of mechanical structures Symptoms: a 2003 article Shanghai Public B51.8T Passat sedan, equipped with ZF of Germany produced the 01V type (5HP-19FL) Hand / from one 5-speed electronically controlled automatic Transmission , Mileage to 120,000 km. The car’s transmission had been repaired in the other repair shop, to repair the fault is no reverse gear, the impact of forward gears, no reptiles and transmission within Abnormal noise .
Troubleshooting: plant maintenance personnel in the next car after the repair, but repairs to a certain degree it difficult to continue. I take car to the maintenance staff asked them about their maintenance through. Maintenance personnel is that statement: First connection failure Diagnostic On the transmission electronic control system was tested, only found a P0730 fault code. When checking the transmission oil level and found missing at least 2L of about ATF, ATF again added test, fault phenomenon remains intact. Because the new automatic transmission plant maintenance experience failure is not very rich, so can only do simple dismantling. Remove the transmission oil pan, ATF found that black and pollution, but did not find too many Wear and tear Particles, so they remove transmission hydraulic control valve body to decompose wash, in the cleaning process does not find all slide valve have wear and cable wiring. Refitted after the test, the results reverse gear still no crawling process, only the increase Accelerator To 2000r/min be driving around the same time, there is creeping forward while blocking cold hot car is not crawling, it does not conduct road tests. .
In this case, we are involved in vehicle maintenance failure. The road test, the basic failure phenomena by the reaction with the repair shop the fault phenomena coincide. Thus we first connection failure diagnostic apparatus, check the transmission of the electronic control system, where its fault memory read out the P0730 fault code, meaning the fault code information for the transmission gear ratio error. Transmission control unit through the receiver input shaft speed Sensor G182 and G195 output shaft speed sensor to calculate the transmission ratio of each gear, there is usually this fault code the control unit, sensors, circuits and mechanical components within the transmission slipping problem. By reading the transmission of dynamic data and the actual transmission failure phenomenon observed, we are locked into the point of failure in the mechanical and hydraulic aspects, it was decided to dismantle transmission.
Transmission assembly in the decomposition, we found transmission within groups of friction plate burning, transmission mechanical components of the composition shown in Figure 1. In which the active component responsible for reverse gear clutch B group, responsible for 2,3,5-block Brake Components of the C group brake block for 1-4 (low block and direct block) A group of active components responsible for 4,5-gear clutch, and the active component is more severely burning the clutch E group, the most serious is the burning of the clutch B group and A group clutch. Through careful examination, can determine the B group of clutch burning because the group clutch wear gap is too big, forcing the clutch piston stroke to increase, establish a working pressure when the clutch piston stroke exceeds the limit due to campaigns, there spill reverse gear malfunction. The forward gears without crawling is mainly due to group A clutch piston seals caused minor damage relief. As a result, can determine the transmission electronic control system fault code stored P0730 reason is slipping transmission.
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July 9, 2016 / como / 0 Comments
There is a long history of the carbon monoxide compound that dates back nearly eight hundred years. While the compound exists naturally and has likely been present since early in the earth’s formation, it wasn’t until a 14th century Spanish chemist named Arnaldus de Villanova described the gases from burning wood, which we today know as carbon monoxide. Almost three hundred years later, a Belgian chemist, Jan Baptista van Helmont, almost lost his life while inadvertently inhaling a carbon dioxide and monoxide mixture.
By the late 1700’s, a French chemist named Lassone was able to take a coal material and heat up zinc oxide, which emitted a then-unknown gas that made a blue flame in his laboratory – carbon monoxide. It is unclear whether a chemist from England named William Cruikshank clearly identified carbon monoxide first at the turn of the 19th century or another English chemist, Joseph Priestly, did so a few years earlier when he identified both carbon dioxide and monoxide.
Poison value well known
While the early studies of carbon monoxide did indeed indicate that it was a poison to humans in many cases, it wasn’t until the mid-1800’s that French physiologist Claude Bernard specifically studied the deadly characteristics of the gas. For several centuries, many scientists have known of the poisonous nature of carbon monoxide. Tiny doses or naturally occurring amounts of carbon monoxide typically cause vomiting, nausea, an unnatural feeling of exhilaration and other effects. Of course as the amount of carbon monoxide increases, can cause unconsciousness as well as severe intestinal occlusions and eruptions. Ultimately, a high enough level of carbon monoxide can cause death.
the action of carbon monoxide poisoning is a relatively simple process. Oxygen molecules enter the lungs and are carried by red blood cells. the oxygen links up with an iron atom in a molecule called oxyhemoglobin. It is later freed by this molecule to aid other cell functions throughout the body that produce energy. When carbon monoxide enters the body this “transference chain” of oxygen is broken. Carbon monoxide bonds with the hemoglobin as does oxygen but it is much more stable (as carbonmonoxyhemoglobin) and lasts longer than oxygen, thus pushing out oxygen and essentially suffocating cells in the body. Since much less oxygen enters the body, less energy is produced and the body is poisoned.
As a cause of death
Carbon monoxide is so prevalent that, throughout the world, more people die of it than any other type of poison. Since it has no smell and is transparent, it is very hard to detect. Luckily, modern technology has caught up and carbon monoxide detectors are produced in huge volumes for home, office and industrial use. they are installed the same way that smoke detectors are. Some typical sources of carbon monoxide are unventilated charcoal fires, broken gas furnaces or stove connections and, of course, automotive and other combustible engine exhaust. this last example is the most prevalent emission of the gas in the modern world today. Often, in such overpopulated places as Mexico City or New York, car emissions are the most common carbon monoxide source with unusually high levels. those who smoke tobacco also have a direct interaction with carbon monoxide. Nearly ten percent of all of the body’s hemoglobin is locked out by carbon monoxide for those who regularly smoke a pack or more a day of cigarettes.
Since the most common form of carbon monoxide emission is from cars, it is important to note the amount of carbon dioxide/carbon monoxide that emerges and how it happens. Both the temperature and the amount of oxygen in place during the reaction that generates carbon monoxide will determine its amount. Typically, carbon monoxide can form when there is little oxygen and combustion takes place at lower temperatures, so when there is more oxygen present and the temperature is higher, greater amounts are generated.
Ironically, for a number of years following the advent of the Industrial Revolution carbon monoxide was used a fuel for automobiles in parts of the world where gasoline could not be easily found. In these places, charcoal-burning devices were integrated into the combustion engine, so that when coal was burned, a high concentration of carbon monoxide was piped directly to the carburetor to be fired to move engine pistons, etc. the gas has also been used to euthanize animals and humans over the years, but the practice has largely fallen off in recent times. Carbon monoxide has also been used to drive oxygen out of substances to reduce them to their purest form. As an example, if iron oxide is used as a source material, and carbon monoxide is forced to interact with it, pure iron will result from the process.
July 6, 2016 / como / 0 Comments
What do I need to do to sell my car?
The time has come for you to sell your car and, naturally, you’ve got questions.
There are a few obvious ones –
What documents do I need to sell my car?
Can I sell my car if the registration has expired?
Can I sell a car on which I still owe money?
These questions may seem daunting, but in actual fact, the answers are fairly straightforward.
What documents do a need to sell my car?
The single key document you will need is a proof of ownership. Obviously, the state and the dealer will want to know that you are the owner of the vehicle and that you do, indeed, have the right to sell the car. The document you are most likely to have to hand is the title. If you have this, it’s easy to just sign it over to the dealer. The dealer will also have all the forms to accompany the sale of a car using the title. If you do not have the title you must visit any DMV office and apply for a duplicate title by completing a Vehicle Registration/Title Application.
You’ll also want to accompany the proof of ownership with an original bill of sale. This can take almost any form, as most DMVs do not supply official bills of sale. It needs to include the name of the buyer and the seller, the VIN of the vehicle in question, the date, the make and model of the vehicle and the price.
If the car is currently registered, youll want to bring the registration documents with you. Once you have finalized the sale, make sure to remove the license plates and the registration sticker. That way you will not be liable for tickets the next owner may get.
If the car is paid off, youll want to have the lien release document. This is a document sent by the lien-holder (usually a bank or finance company) once the car is paid off. It notes to VIN and the date of the final payment and officially releases the car from the lien. You can still sell the car if there is money owed on it (see below)
Almost all other paper work related to the sale of a car can be provided by the used car dealer.
Can I sell my car if the Registration has expired?
Yes.
If the car is not registered or you cannot find the registration, a visit to the DMV will help. There you can get a Vehicle Registration/Title Application, or a Certification of Registration for Transfer of Non-Titled Vehicle. You could also use an original Affidavit of Sale or a Manufacturers Certificate of Origin. In some situations you can use an expired registration certificate.
Each state is has different rules about the finer points, but the answer to the question is yes, you can sell an unregistered car or a car for which you do not have the tags. The dealer will be able to help you figure out exactly which form you can use.
Can I sell a car on which I still owe money?
Yes.
The dealer will arrange to pay off the money due on the car. This money will be deducted from the amount given to you for the car. Thus, if you agree on a price of $6,000 for the car and you still owe $4,000 on it, the dealer will pay you $4000 and give you the remaining $2000. Youll need to bring along the paperwork relating to the loan if you can. The payments coupon book will do, or at a minimum, you need to know that name of the institution which is financing the car. They will be able to look up the car by the VIN and then figure out the exact amount due.
Of course, the amount will be less than the figure in your coupon book. Thats because you will be paying it off early and therefore paying less in interest. Cars which are still on lease are handled in much the same way. This is one of the great advantages of selling your car to a used car dealer. Because this is all they do, they are experts in doing business with the financiers and are able to get the paperwork done much more quickly. Often, when it is time to sell your car, the whole transaction can take as little as fifteen minutes.
A long-time New York used car dealer has a useful article about when it’s time to sell your car. Most reputable dealers will make sure that everything is in order before you walk out, but this checklist will help you get to that point.
July 5, 2016 / como / 0 Comments
TOOLS NEEDED:
SOFT HAMMER
(or Ball Peen Hammer)
BODY HAMMERS
HAMMERING DOLLY
(or Solid Metal Piece)
TORCH or LIGHTER
VICE-GRIP PLIERS
36-120 GRIT SANDPAPER
600 GRIT WET/DRY PAPER
SMALL WOOD BLOCK
METAL FILE
SUCTION CUP
DRY ICE
RULER
DRILL & GRIT DISK
SPRAY PRIMER
Auto body dents come in all shapes and sizes, from a large crease, to a shallow depression or just a little ding. One quality they all share is they distort the original shape of the sheet metal. The general definition of a dent is any place where the metal of the cars body has been stretched. So, in order to repair the car body, one has to bring the dent back to its original shape by un-stretching the metal. Depending on the type of dent, one can pop out the dent or pound out the dent.
If youre the DIY (Do It Yourself) type, then you’ll try to repair dents in your car’s body yourself. Before attempting this, compare the costs of hiring a professional with your confidence of doing the job properly yourself…and be honest about your auto body repair experience and ability. If youre one of those people that starts a car project and then gets frustrated half way through because its harder than you thought, (YOU know who you are!) then it is probably best only to risk a dent repair job yourself with an older, less expensive car. That way, the repair costs might already be more than the car’s actual value. Even then, you may only be able to repair fender dents, as they can be removed without anything from the car’s interior getting in the way (IE inner door panels).
There are two main types of car dent repairs: paint restoration repair and dent repair without paint. The first type of dent repair is for minor dents and dings, and paint restoration dent repair is for when serious damage was inflicted on the car body part(s). Many car owners, especially in this economy, are looking for ways to get around paying to take their car to an auto repair shop. With this in mind, Ill cover both DIY small dent removal and large dent repair. Ill put a disclaimer right up front that the following methods with not work for every dent, every time. Yet, there is no harm in trying them to save a buck.
Small Dents & Do It Yourself DIY Fender Dent Repair
SOFT HAMMER DENT REMOVAL:
Most cars today feature a car body so thin and flexible that dents can be created accidentally…by simply leaning on your car! Most very small dents can be easily repaired with a soft hammer. Always aim for the center of the dent, to avoid making new marks on the outer circumference of it, and pound out the depression. NOTE: you may have to view the dent from the underside of the car. With a fender dent, this can only be done by raising the vehicle and removing the wheel under the dent. Then, while hammering with one hand, you can feel the outside of the fender with your other. This allows you to check that the dent is evenly pushed out. If you *still* cant remove the dent, jump ahead to the large dent removal section of this article, as you will have to remove the fender from the car.
TORCH, LIGHTER & HAIR DRYER DENT REMOVAL:
http://metacafe.com/watch/963248/remove_car_dent_with_a_lighter/
You can heat the convex (dented) portion of a car dent with a torch, lighter or hair dryer, until it glows a dull red. Then stop heating it and let the dented surface cool. As the metal cools, the dent will shrink back, and hopefully pop out, leaving the surface very close to original.
SUCTION CUP DENT REMOVAL:
If you are not able to pound out your small dent easily, you may have a medium dent in your car. In that case, you can attach a large suction cup with a handle to the dented car part…and pull out the dent. How does this work? As you squeeze the cup against the car bodys dented surface, you are actually squeezing the air out from underneath it. The resulting vacuum you create causes the suction cup to stick onto the surface. Start by placing the suction cup along the edge of the dent, pulling it out, and slowly working your way inward. If youre still having trouble, you should try tapping the dent with a soft hammer, from the inside, while you pull out the dent from the outside.
DRY ICE DENT REMOVAL:
A How To Video of DRY ICE DENT REMOVAL:
http://metacafe.com/watch/yt-ab5PdrAIKeo/how_to_cure_car_dent_with_dry_ice/
Dry ice may be used to repair a small car dent, and is sold by many grocery stores. (Always remember to use gloves when handling dry ice!) Simply place the dry ice in the center of the dent, wait for it to attach firmly to the car body, and gently pull out the dent. You may have to repeat this procedure several times for the dent to be totally removed.
Large Dents & Do It Yourself DIY Car Dent Repair
OK…the Intro To DIY Dent Removal 101 class ends HERE. The following techniques are for large dents, requiring more car repair experience and skill. Start by removing all bolts from the fender, and taking it off the car body. If you cant remove the fender, there is at least one hidden bolt left intact…find it and remove it. NOTE: Never force the fender off a car. (*Some* mechanics also recommend you drill a hole in the center of the dent, using a 1/8 inch drill bit. This is entirely up to YOU. If you are using a dent repair kit, you will most likely find a plastic adapter and glue gun included, and these would be used for that task.) Once the fender is lifted off, use a heavier hammer to pound out the dents from the fender’s underside. Always start from the CENTER of the dent and use short, small taps on the dent, not long, hard ones. As you pound out the dent, hold a hammer dolly against the outside of the fender to prevent making new protrusions around the dent. If the fender supports are bent, be sure to straighten them back out with vice-grip pliers. After youve successfully fixed the dent, simply re-attach all the bolts and put the fender back on the car.
Body hammers and hammer dollies come in many shapes, sizes and weights. First, examine the dent closely with a ruler for depth and length. Then, always choose the best-shaped and smallest size hammer that will do the job, and the dolly that has the closest curvature to the dented panel. If you don’t have body tools, you can try to use a ball peen hammer and solid scrap metal piece as your dolly. This will take a lot of taps, but wont do as much damage to your car body panel. Since all dents are unique, so is each dent repair, and you truly have to use your own best judgement to get the metal straightened. Start by placing the dolly against the top side of the dent and, swinging the hammer from the underside of the dent, begin tapping with MANY short, small taps.
The fender pictured above has a typical dent in the side: oval-shaped, 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. In that case, they used a hammer with a large, flat round top, to be sure the overall force of the blows would be evenly transmitted over an area of a couple square inches. This helped pound out the dent without creating unsightly, little pin-sized mounds. The head of the hammer should strike the sheet metal flat against its surface, as, at the same time,
you hold the dolly directly over where you are striking.
Note that, after every few taps, you must lift the dolly and examine the dent to be sure the taps are reducing the depth of the dent AND not resulting in little convex dents. If the taps are leaving little mounds on the surface, you must start using a hammer with a larger head. If the dent hasnt moved at all, put the dolly down and hit the inside of the dent harder. After the dent popped out, it left a slight raised section, which is easily seen under the straight edge.
If you pop out the dent, but end up with one spot that stands up too high, dont worry. This is common, and there are two ways to fix this reverse-dent. This time, put the dolly underneath the fender and gently tap the convex (raised) area with the smaller head of the hammer. Repetitive, small hammer hits should level the surface completely.
How To Tell If The Repair Conforms
To The Original Car Body Surface?
Using the body file, you can find the high spots that need additional attention, and very lightly tap them down until the surface returns to its original shape again.
You can now file the once dented area, scraping off the etching primer coating. As you file the surface, take note of which areas are still a little low and which are now a bit too high. Go back and re-do one of the above methods until the dent is removed enough to meet your standards. Then, use a medium grit disk mounted on a drill to grind the paint down to the bare metal for at least one inch around the dent. Next, fill the area with a high quality body filler. Allow that to dry completely, then sand the area with a block of wood wrapped in sandpaper. Prime the area with 6 coats of automotive spray primer. Be sure to allow each coat of primer to dry completely before applying the next one over it. Sand the primer using a 600-grit wet and dry sandpaper to remove scratches. Touch up the area with a matching automotive paint. When applying automotive paint, do so using a spray gun and in a brisk, fluid motion. If the newly painted area is not smooth, re-sand and re-paint it until it is.
How good you need your dent repair to be is really up to each individual. You can keep working the dent until your file shows the metal surface is perfect, or you can leave little low spots to be filled later with body filler. NOTE: Overworking the metal can leave it brittle, and it might begin to crack instead of bend.
Sometimes…Less IS more! *smile* Generally, if you are considered (by yourself or others) to be a Perfectionist, then its probably best to have your car professionally repaired to its original, perfect self. Otherwise, you might find yourself endlessly obsessing and working the dent until it cracks. If your standards are more flexible, youre on a tight budget, and are handy with a hammer, then try our dent repair methods and let us know how it goes…GOOD LUCK!